A Powder Pilgrimage

I’ve been chasing winter storms since my mid-twenties—reading forecasts, planting myself in the path of a system, and waiting for the chaos to settle into a blank canvas. Being there. Feeling the anticipation, the silence before first chair, the roar of laughter echoing from friends.

Over the years, I’ve ridden Whistler on 80 cm overnight dumps more times than I can count. I’ve hit Retallack after a 120 cm storm. I’ve hunkered down in a backcountry hut in Pemberton and emerged to untouched lines. I like to think I’ve had it as good as it gets.

But then there’s Japan. And it’s just... different.

The snow doesn’t get tracked—it gets moved. And the consistency? Top-to-bottom blower. Every turn feels earned and effortless at the same time.

This was a trip a long time in the making. Here’s how it all went down—and what to know if you’re planning your own pilgrimage across the Pacific.

Touchdown in Tokyo

We flew from Vancouver to Haneda Airport, and by the time we hit Tokyo’s rush hour, we were blurry-eyed and overstimulated. Nothing prepares you for the sheer scale of Tokyo. The movement. The order within chaos. The fact that everyone somehow knows exactly where they’re going.

We based ourselves in Shinjuku, just a short stumble from Golden Gai—a nostalgic maze of over 200 micro bars and eateries. We indulged in sushi at the famous fish market, got lost in the surreal worlds of TeamLab Planets, and shopped in Ginza. We even joined a culinary tour that cracked open the rich history of Japan’s food culture.

Tokyo wasn’t just a layover. It made what came next feel like stepping into another dimension entirely.

Pro Tip: Two days is not enough. Study the train system beforehand, and bring cash, coins, and an international data plan. Google Translate is your best friend.

Hokkaido Bound

From Tokyo, we flew north to Sapporo, landing just as the storm of the season rolled in. The city was alive—lit up by its winter carnival and blanketed in snow. As much as we wanted to explore, Sapporo was more of a pit stop on the way to what we were really here for: Niseko.

The Drive to Niseko

Driving from Sapporo to Niseko is an experience in itself. We wound through mountain passes lined with towering avalanche barriers and snowbanks growing with every kilometre.

We arrived in Niseko late morning and wasted no time finding our next adventure. But first, we had to track down our bags, which had been lost in transit—a shoutout to AirTags (and Amy’s next-level planning) for saving the day. Once everything was recovered, we got straight to what we came for.

Touring Chisenupuri and Mt. Yotei

Our first objective was Chisenupuri (1,134 m), a classic, conical backcountry peak in the Niseko range. We toured up via the public up-track maintained by the crew at Hokkaido Backcountry Club. Snow quality? Unreal. The descent? Straight out of a dream.

Then there was Mt. Yotei (1,898 m), the crown jewel of the area. A near-perfect volcano known as Ezo-Fuji. We only climbed to the 1,300 m “powder line,” but even there, the terrain felt sacred—wide, untouched, and infinitely skiable. You don’t just ride Yotei. You respect it.

Riding the Storm at Niseko & Rusutsu

Each resort day started with the pursuit of first chair. We bounced between Annupuri, Niseko Village, and Hanazono, chasing openings at the resort gates like it was a powder stock exchange. And it worked. One of the biggest highlights? Dropping in from the Mt. Annupuri summit. Some of the lightest, most effortless turns I’ve ever made—with friends beside me and no one else in sight.

We got a 40 cm day at Rusutsu that has become my best resort day ever. Untouched runs. No lift lines. Just fast laps, flowy lines, and full creative freedom. If I had one regret, it’s not picking up a Gentemstick during the trip. I spent more time than I wanted trying to stay afloat. Lesson learned.

Gate Tips & Favourite Zones

What makes Niseko United special is its gate system—strategically opened zones that allow you into deep powder terrain with relatively easy access.

Gate G7 (Annupuri): Hit it early if upper chairs are closed. Absolute magic in there.
Gate G1 (Annupuri): Best when the wind is calm. Smooth and deep.
Gate G11 (Niseko Village): Heaven. Variety for days—glades, gullies, and a long drop back to the gondola.
Gate G3 (Hanazono backcountry): Worth the mission through Hirafu. Great access to wild terrain from the top of the King #4 Chair and some boot-packing.

We used Niseko United passes to bounce across all four connected resorts. Highly recommend if you want to stay flexible and chase conditions.

For backcountry vibes: Stick to Annupuri and the summit into Hanazono.
For playful terrain: The Country Road Chair delivers flowy, fun lines and features.

Après, Onsens & Essential Travel Tips

Japan isn’t just about the riding. It’s about the recovery, too.

Yukichichibu Onsen: Mud baths, mountain views, and that classic rustic onsen vibe.
Rusutsu Onsen – Kotobuki: Clean design, outdoor bath and Jacuzzi. A perfect reset.
Hirafutei Onsen: Annupuri views were unreal. Go at sunset if you can.

And this matters: if you want to eat out in Niseko, make reservations—even for ramen. Plan meals days—or even weeks—in advance, and pay deposits if required. It’s worth it.

Why Japan is Different

The culture, the snow, the terrain, the food, the onsens—it all works together. The mountains feel alive. And the whole experience feels, somehow, both elevated and grounded at the same time.

If you're a storm chaser, Japan is it. A reminder of why we ride in the first place.